BTS: The making of our self tan drops

Creating a new product, from the spark of an idea through to launch day, is always exciting. But stepping into an entirely new category? That's what made developing The Impossible Tan™, our first ever organic tanning drops, a real passion project.

"This hybrid follows in the footsteps of our bestselling face oil, Rosehip BioRegenerate, entering a new category and reimagining self tan for sensitive skin and nervous tanners alike," says Sarah, Pai's Founder.

Much like Pai itself, our tan drops were inspired by an all too common sensitive skin problem. "We understand that a significant portion of women, 69% to be exact, struggle to find sunless tanning products that don't cause irritation," explains Danielle, Head of NPD. "Our formula is uniquely formulated for sensitive skin and dermatologist approved, ensuring a gentle, safe, and beautiful tan without the worry of adverse reactions."

For a brand best known for our sensitive skin cleansers and face oils, venturing into tanning territory was a chance to show what we're really capable of. And just what natural ingredients can achieve when you push the science.

"We know many with sensitive or particularly dry skin struggle with self tan products. So we wanted to create a formula that both types of skin could use with absolute confidence," adds Sarah.

"This latest release is no better example of how we use sophisticated green chemistry knowhow and technical skills to create 100% natural alternatives to products that are usually synthetically produced. All, of course, with zero compromise on performance."

Formulating a flawless tan

While creating a sensitive skin-friendly formula topped our wishlist, we wanted our sunless tan to outperform conventional options in every way. Because we've all had those rocky experiences with self tan. Streaks. Dry patches. Irritation. Breakouts. And that unmistakable biscuit smell that follows you around for days.

"I've never had good outcomes to be honest," admits Sarah. "I'd often find they would trigger my chronic urticaria, or leave streaks or darker patches round the ankles. Nothing too drastic, but we've all seen the Friends episode with Ross and his disastrous 'mississippi' counting in the spray tan booth!"

So our chemists set out to create a hybrid formula that delivered a natural-looking tan plus genuine skincare benefits, using actives usually reserved for serums and barrier-boosting moisturisers. Proper skincare that happens to tan, not a tanner with a token drop of aloe.

A hydrating hybrid that breaks the rules

"We've innovated beyond typical self-tanners, which often contain drying alcohols, to create a formula that delivers a consistent tan regardless of season, and prioritises skin comfort," explains John, our lead chemist and Head of R&D.

"Formulating without alcohol was a challenge; it's a common ingredient used for reducing the drying time in tans," adds John. "This was overcome with a specific blend of humectants to ensure relatively quick absorption, without drying the skin or causing discomfort."

It took 12 iterations before we nailed the formula. John and his team started with a COSMOS-approved DHA (bioengineered from glycerin) blended with DHB to create a healthy-looking tan without any orange undertones.

Then came the skincare actives. Hyaluronic Acid for plumping hydration. Aloe Vera to soothe. Ceramide-rich Oat Extract to strengthen the barrier. Prebiotic Inulin to support the skin's microbiome. These aren't decorative. They're dosed at active levels.

The result? Self tan that actually improves your skin while it develops. No dryness. No irritation. Just a gradual, buildable glow that works seamlessly with your existing routine. Perfect for those with sensitive or dry skin who've given up on tanning altogether. Or anyone who wants their fake tan to work as hard as their serum.

Testing, trialling, and learning the hard way

Less seamless was figuring out how to manufacture a colour product in our skincare facility. A caramel tint guides application, but DHA develops its colour over time too. Two different colour processes, one formula.

"One of the challenges with this product was ensuring a safe procedure for handling active materials to prevent stains," explains Kasia, Production Manager. "We had to implement strict protocols to minimise the risk of contamination and maintain a clean working environment."

Equipment sorted, we tested performance on real skin. Clinical trials delivered glowing results (literally), but demonstrating those results for our campaign posed an entirely new challenge.

"The most challenging part of capturing our campaign assets was testing how many drops would give us the desired effect for each model ahead of the shoot, and then making sure that they applied the drops accordingly, to be at their optimal glowy selves on shoot day," recalls Head of Creative, Marine.

"We had originally hoped to create arm swatches that would show the buildable nature of the product and the ability to intensify your tan as desired, but quickly realised that it would be hard to capture this accurately on a very small patch of skin."

With a customisable formula that takes time to develop, traditional before-and-after shots weren't going to cut it. Marine focused instead on casting models who could showcase the drops' versatility across different skin tones.

"We wanted to convey just how exciting this product is, and looked to create assets that would feel uplifting and energetic. This product is unique in how versatile and adaptable it is to any skin tone, so it was crucial that we chose models that could illustrate that. Lastly, we looked to create luminous shots that bring to life the idea of sunshine in a bottle!"

The real beauty is in the versatility

We learned plenty during development. From understanding exactly what frustrates people about self tan, to perfecting application instructions that work for every skin tone. There were patchwork arms and legs all over the office as the team tested different drop counts and mixing methods.

Sarah even had to cover up a tanning mishap before hosting live on QVC, having spilled some drops and forgotten to wash her hands. (That's why every bottle now reminds you to wash your hands immediately after application. We learn from experience.)

But what we discovered is that the real beauty of these drops lies in their adaptability.

"I love it so much and am a total convert," says Sarah, who previously avoided tanning her hypersensitive skin entirely.

"Personally, I don't apply it neat. My perfect way to apply is to blend it into my Back To Life™ serum. I mix four drops of self tan into one pump of serum for a few consecutive days to gradually build up the colour. And I'm particularly excited about the timing of the launch as we emerge from winter hibernation looking for a warmer skin tone and glow!"

For those with dry or sensitive skin, mixing the drops with your favourite Pai moisturiser or serum creates a custom tanning treatment that nourishes while it develops. Try blending with The Anthemis for extra calming benefits, or C-2 Believe for an antioxidant boost alongside your glow.

Discover more and shop The Impossible Tan™ Hydrating Self Tan Drops here.